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INTRODUCTION
It's no secret that crime is increasing
every year and is invading what once were considered "safe
communities." Crime against property occurs on the average
of 20 times a minute with an estimated $1,000 loss for each
occurrence. Burglary is a crime of opportunity where entry
is gained due to the carelessness of homeowners.
Single family homes are twice as likely
to be burglarized than apartments. While receiving a lot of
publicity when it happens, hotels and motels account for less
than 3% of all burglaries. The most likely things to be stolen
in a burglary are cash, small electronic equipment, home computers,
cameras, jewelry, furs, tools and hand guns.
Few people really bother about security
until something happens to them or a neighbor. The public's
complacent attitude is the burglar's best friend and your
worst enemy. There are many things the average person can
do to make their home less of a target. This report will get
you started on the right road. Remember, the two things a
burglar fears most are being seen and having to take too much
time to complete the crime.
While burglars typically "target"
a home when no one is home, if you surprise one in the act,
your chances of being injured are too high to attempt to intervene.
A sobering statistic shows many homeowners attempting to defend
(themselves, family members, or their property) with a weapon
end up having it turned on themselves.
Many local law enforcement agencies will
provide a free "walk through" of your property.
The purpose is to identify all potential trouble spots and
determine what steps can be implemented to improve the overall
security of your property. You can probably organize a "block
party" and have the police "sweep" your entire
block. Because of cost-cutting many local law enforcement
agencies are stretched to the limit and there may be a long
waiting list. Sometimes off-duty police officers will do this
kind of work for a nominal fee. A few words of caution are
in order if you have some third party security company do
a survey for you. Many of course will do a free survey to
get their foot in your door and try and sell you their security
devices. So be forewarned that a locksmith will probably try
and sell you better locks, a alarm company a security system
and so on. So use common sense.
PUT YOURSELF IN A BURGLAR'S SHOES
One thing every homeowner should do at
least twice a year is take a walk around and through your
property with a close friend or neighbor who is not too familiar
with your house. Start outside and ask yourself "how
would I best break in? The purpose of not doing it alone is
your pal may spot things you'll overlook. Return the favor
and complete a survey for your friend.
Besides the obvious "lived-in"
look, don't get into a habit of only doing certain things
only when you're not home. Chances are good you can tell when
your neighbor isn't home. Remember it's a burglar's job to
know the same things. Most professional criminals can tell
nobody's home at least four or five houses away.
Several dead giveaways are always closing
the drapes ONLY when you're not home. Having no garbage cans
out collection day, or an empty can sitting at the curb, are
tip-offs you're not home. So are closing up the house as tight
as a drum in the hot summer months without the air-conditioner
running. Turning on a certain light or two and every other
room is in total darkness. Ditto for picking up all the kid's
toys, taking in the dog, shutting the garage door if you frequently
leave it open, and turning off the lawn sprinkler.
Many people before leaving turn on the
"burglar light, " the light over the kitchen sink.
You might as well hang a sign on the front door you're not
home! If you use an answering machine never leave a message
that you're not home. Instead say you can't come to the phone
right now. If you don't have a machine, turn down the volume
on phones before leaving so it can't be heard from outside
- another dead giveaway nobody's home.
EFFECTIVE BURGLAR DETERRENTS
You've probably head it several times and
it's true! A dog is one of the best deterrents. Not because
it's vicious, it need not even be seen, but it has to be heard.
A dog with a menacing bark will scare away a lot of would-be
burglars, not only because they don't know what kind of dog
you have and what risk it would be to them if try tried to
break in, but more likely because a noisy dog will create
a disturbance and get attention - the last thing a burglar
wants!
If you don't have a dog there's nothing
stopping you from pretending. A Beware of Dog sign on your
fence, a dog house in the back yard, even a loose dog chain
or bowl can drive away a potential burglar. Don't be fooled
by companies that provide cheap electronic "dogs"
who bark none stop if a intruder trips a relay or otherwise
signals his presence. Most experienced prowlers are familiar
with these devices and won't be fooled or scared off.
Electronic devices that are effective besides
the typical whole house alarm systems for windows and doors
are infrared or motion detectors that sense movement or the
heat given off by one's body. Anyone approaching too close
will trigger any number of attached devices. The most effective
are powerful lights or burglar horns that either flood the
area with light or fill the air with a deafening sound without
notice. Just like a barking dog, the would-be burglar will
usually hightail it out of there for fear of being discovered.
To be effective, the sensitivity of such
devices much not be set too high or stray animals will set
them off too frequently which will get you on the wrong side
of your neighbors. Also be sure such devices are high enough
that they can't be easily turned off or broken.
SECURING DOORS
Illegal entry through the front door occurs
more often than all other points of entry combined! All exterior
doors should be of solid hard wood or steel reinforced. A
good door does no good if the door frame is in bad shape or
of inferior construction. Pay special attention to the door
jams. Most, even in expensive homes are made out of cheap
pine. It don't take much force to "kick in" the
door even if protected with dead bolts, if the strike plate
is attached with only a couple of 1/2 or 3/4 inch screws.
Take a few minutes and install 2-1/2 to
3 inch stainless steel or nickel plated screws in all your
exterior door jams. Be sure screws go at least 1-3/4 inch
deep into the underlying framing lumber. While you at it,
consider getting heavy duty strike plates or a door reinforcement
kit sold in many larger home improvement centers. Be advised
you may have to chisel out more of the door jam to install
but it's worth the effort for the greater protection provided.
Another way to increase the chances of your door holding is
to further protect it from being kicked in by installing a
device on the floor that the door rests against on inside
center when shut, and swings away when the door opens.
Any kind of sliding glass door is a favorite
target. Guard against the door being lifted up and out by
installing several screws into the door's upper track. Open
and shut the door through its entire range to allow just enough
of the screw's head protruding to allow free movement without
allowing the door to be removed. Several devices can be installed
into the door's upper or lower track that acts much like a
dead bold by running a heavy pin through the door track and
deep into the frame. Just having a length of old broom handle
at a 45 degree angle in the door track also prevents the door
from easily being forced open and works nearly as well!
You garage door is easy pickings unless
you have a electronic door opener. Today these devices are
fairly cheap (around $150) and make it practically impossible
to force open the overhead door from the outside without breaking
through the actual door panels due to the high tension produced
from the worm drive or chain device that makes the openers
work Yes, it is possible for burglar to punch in the right
code and gain access, but with today's remote controls providing
so many possible combinations, the odds are very slight, and
the burglar won't waste the time trying all the possibilities.
Final bit of advice on automatic door openers.
Do be sure to change the security code from the preinstalled
settings which are almost always set to zeros. Also, if you
notice your door open and you're sure you shut it, one of
your neighbors probably set his opener to the same code. Take
the time to change your setting, or you're giving a potential
burglar a great opportunity to gain free access.
SECURING WINDOWS
Burglars break windows as a last resort
- or by accident. The preferred method is cutting a access
hole or slipping in a thin stiff wire and undoing the locking
device. Most double hung windows have cheap locks which should
be replaced by heavy duty sash locks or even keyed locks,
if you can put up with the inconvenience. An old trick is
installing a small eyebolt in either corner. If done correctly
the window can't be opened, with the eyebolt in place from
the outside. Of course you could screw the window shut by
drilling a hole through the frame but it defeats the purpose
of having a window, and presents a fire hazard. Not recommended.
The safest windows are glass block. Almost
impossible to break through, they of course can't be opened
and are not as pleasing to look at. A good choice for basements
or areas at or near ground level.
Another good protection is installed roll-a-way
electric security shutters, or decorative security grates.
The main down side is they can prove to be a serious fire
hazard and prevent your escape. Newer models install on tracks
or can easily be pushed open from inside to lessen their danger
in the event of fire and the thick smoke sure to accompany
it.
HOUSEHOLD INVENTORY
The above steps can go a long way to protecting
your home but no matter how secure your residence is, if a
professional burglar has targeted your home and is determined
to break in, the unthinkable may still happen. To aid law
enforcement agencies and greatly assist in insurance claims
you should maintain a detailed household inventory of all
your valuables.
It makes sense to "mark" important
items with some permanent identifying mark. There are a variety
of simple tools you can rent that will engrave serial numbers,
a driver's license number or some other unique marking into
your valuables.
Remember most burglars "fence"
stolen items in order to get cash, usually for illegal drugs.
You'll greatly reduce the chances of someone walking off with
your TV, VCR or other valuables if it has a conspicuous ID
number that can't be removed, simply because it will greatly
reduce its street value and make it too much work to get rid
of, and of course it is a lot easier to trace and return the
property to the rightful owner.
Today, many people have a video camera.
Sweep each room and record the contents from several different
prospectives. Next, take close-ups of really important items.
To tie-in, have a family member pose with the valuables. In
a clear voice identify each item, the date of purchase, price
paid and model and serial numbers. Remember to update the
tape every time you purchase something new.
If you don't have a video camera, a regular
camera also works well. Make a companion audio tape to go
along with it. It very important that the tapes or pictures
be kept off the property or they may be stolen or damaged.
Keep them in a safety deposit box. Now set aside a hour or
so and complete the security check list on the following page.
Correct weak points as soon as possible and your home and
belongings will be more secure.
GENERAL SECURITY
- Have you arranged to have member of
a law enforcement agency do a professional survey?
- Are all trees and shrubs pruned and
well maintained to prevent anyone from hiding unseen?
- Do any trees, down pipes, lattice work
provide easy access to upper floors?
- If you have skylights can they be removed
from the outside or easily broken?
- Any ladders, tools kept outside to assist
any potential intruder?
- Are you guilty of keeping a hidden house
key outside the house where it's sure to be found?
- Is your home well lighted with particular
attention to exterior doors?
- Can your main entrance be seen from
the street?
- Are exterior doors at least 1-3/4 inch
thick and made from solid wood or reinforced with metal?
- Do all exterior doors have heavy duty
dead bolts and reinforced door jams?
- Can anyone gain easy access through
a mail slot, dryer vent, or pet entrance?
- If doors have glass panels can someone
break through and defeat the locking mechanism?
- Have all sliding glass doors been protected
from being easily lifted out from their frames?
- Are all exterior lights and security
devices in good working order and protected from breakage?
- Does the door from the attached garage
leading to the house have a dead bolt?
- Does your overhead door have a working
electronic door opener?
- Does your overhead door have any loose,
broken or missing door panels or hardware?
- Do you keep the overhead doors closed,
and your car locked inside the garage?
- Do all windows have reinforced locking
devices that can be secured in the open position?
- Do all screens and storm windows have
reinforced locks?
- Do ground level windows have guards
or grates?
- Are basement windows glass block or
protected by grates or security devices?
- All irreplaceable items kept in high
quality fire resistant safe or in off-site safety deposit
box?
- Do you have a complete and current video
tape or pictures of all your valuables off-site?
- Are all firearms kept secured and apart
from ammunition?
FIRE PREVENTION AND SAFETY
- Is your heating system in proper working
order and inspected for dangerous leaks yearly?
- Is there ample air circulation around
appliances that are likely to overheat?
- Any overloaded circuits, long extension
cords runs, too many devices plugged unto one outlet?
- Fireplaces, chimney free of dangerous
build ups that could catch on fire?
- Protective grate in front of fireplace
to prevent sparks, hot logs from rolling into room?
- Kitchen oven hood and far clear of greasy
build-up that could cause a fire?
- Smoke detectors installed on each level
and tested weekly?
- Smoke detector batteries replaced every
12 months or less?
- Working fire extinguisher in kitchen,
basement, garage, auto?
- All family members sleep with bedroom
door closed to prevent spread of fire, smoke?
- All family members practice fire drill,
know escape route, designated meeting pace to go outside?
- Children know how to use phone to get
help in an emergency?
WHEN AWAY FOR EXTENDED PERIODS
- Security system armed? Automatic timers
for lights, radio turned on? Phones turned down?
- Arrange for neighbor to watch house,
cut, water grass, give house that lived-in look?
- No change in normal pattern of opening,
shutting drapes, dead give-away lighting patterns?
- Arrange to stop mail, newspaper delivery,
yard work performed?
- Arrange to have local police give "special
attention" for area beat car?
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